Italian Honeymoon – Sant’Agnello
Catch up on KA’s honeymoon here…
Because the journey from Atrani to Pompeii and Herculaneum and back would have been a loooong day, we decided to spend the nite halfway there in Sant’Agnello. This mostly residential neighborhood is just a 20 minute walk from the center of Sorrento, but a world away. A slight dusty air of something once romantic and long-forgotten lingers in the palm-lined streets that are dotted with oversized colonial style homes. This was once the playground of British ex-pats wintering in Italy, although now many of these homes are hotels and bed and breakfasts.
The one we stayed in was called Relais Villa Savarese, and the property and grounds resembled a plantation home from a Rudyard Kipling novel transported to Italy. I do believe the home had been in the same family for several generations–first a private home, now boutique hotel. Our very large room took up the entire front of the house on the second floor, and although it was clearly furnished quite some time ago, it was very clean and the traditional style seemed appropriate for the historical character of the property. [And there was a TV! A whole three days without television and I was already starving for some. Without even any decent Italian programming on, I found myself temporarily hypnotized by the Michael Jackson doctor’s trial. True story.] Unfortunately the pool was too cold to enjoy, but the lovely pool and garden area definitely transported one away from the hustle and bustle that was only a few blocks away. The area had several highly recommended restaurants that I had read about on TripAdvisor, which the concierge also pointed out to us. Torn between Moonlight and Ciao Toto, as we only had one night in Sant’Agnello, I just about had an indecisiveness meltdown, which culminated in sitting on a beautiful pier over the sea (in the photo above) hemming and hawing and making Scott make a decision. We ended up at Ciao Toto, which definitely had the best pasta of our stay, and an entertaining mix of local and tourist people-watching. Our moonlit walk home was accompanied by the sound of some kind of old-timey Italian lady lounge singer wafting from a nearby hotel that looked and sounded directly out of the 1960’s.
The next morning we only had time to enjoy Villa Savarese’s INCREDIBLE breakfast spread before checking out. It is seriously deserving of the all caps. It was an epic buffet of various Italian breakfast staples (the sweet stuff), accompanied by hardboiled eggs, meats, cheeses, various quiches, as well as caffé to order. We both ate so well we quite forgot about eating again until we had gelato outside Pompeii at 3pm! Our stopover in Sant-Agnello was less than 24 hours, but I was really quite taken by this little town, and would return in a heartbeat for an extended stay. But next, we were off to Herculaneum and Pompeii!