Italian Honeymoon – Lazy Day in Amalfi

Catch up on KA’s honeymoon here

After a lazy morning of Italian Breakfast and hanging out around Villa Rosa, we decided to set out down the road into Atrani, and see what we would find…

The road to Atrani…

As it turns out, a lot of pretty sweet cats and cars (and motos)…

Cats…

Cars

Cars…

We ultimately made our way over to Amalfi, where we quickly fled past the throngs of people in Piazza del Duomo and up the one road until we reached what appears to be the end. At this point we reached the sole bar not flooded with tourists and I ordered us some caffé (a macchiato for me and a caffé luongo for Scott), and we settled in to consult the guidebook that had described a quick easy trail to one of the many ruins of old Amalfi paper mills. Although it felt vaguely like trespassing we followed the directions, up the road and to the left, and did indeed stumble upon some ruins—including the terrifying stone staircase we walked up to get to them. Later in the week I hunted down a trail map at Amalfi’s bookstore (the one on the road that runs along the sea), and it had much more effective and useful hiking maps!

Amalfi

Up the road and into the ruins…

That was about enough for the day and so we headed back to Atrani, and settled ourselves in at Bar Birecto for some beverages and free wifi. We chose Bar Birecto because it appeared that the five bars that ring the piazza were all in cohorts and rotated their opening hours so only one was open at a time, but it quickly earned a special place in our hearts. The establishment seemed to be run by a gentleman (who Scott took to calling the mayor of Atrani) resembling Tony from Lady and the Tramp, who of course spoke english, and it was at this point that Scott made the mistake of asking what beers they had on tap. The response? “Italian beer!” (For the record it was birra moretti.) And so the theme of our trip was established.

Atrani life...

After one or two Italian Beers, we decided to just order dinner so we didn’t have to go up and down the 300 stairs to Villa Rosa more than once. As we ate, the sun set on children playing calcio in Piazza Umberto. Slightly tipsy and very full, we promptly got lost on the way back up the stairs. Like choosing what’s behind door #3, there are five tiny pathways out of Piazza Umberto, and we picked the wrong one! Instead of taking us home, it took us to the source of the haunting sound a Sunday mass being sung in Latin–the stunningly baroque Santa Maria Maddalena. Eventually, we found the right way and climbed up, up, up to Villa Rosa,

where we were greeted by fireworks coming from Ravello. And that is the magic of Italy.

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